Dili, is a mere 90 minutes flying time from Darwin. And although it hasn’t become a major holiday destination yet, it has the potential do so, despite the travel warnings by Australian authorities not to travel unless necessary as a result of the volatility of the situation there.

The brevity of this visit would not allow for an informed assessment of the situation, but hanging around Dili posed no threat, even with the visible reminders of a troubled recent past. On the contrary, the hospitality and friendliness of the Timorese people was overwhelmingly nourishing.

Touted as the “poorest” nation in the world, Timor is relatively expensive when compared with other popular South East Asian destinations. This is mainly due to the sizeable contingent of foreign officials, military personnel and NGO’s based in Dili and elsewhere, assisting with the development of the “newest nation” of the 21st century.

Nonetheless, moving away from the establishments catering almost exclusively for foreigners provides a good selection of family-run stalls and small eating houses at a tenth of the price. The good conversations and friendly exchanges are added bonuses.

But can this two-tier economy be sustainable? The two price system is not new in developing countries where cash-laden foreigners create a market remarkably different from the local and traditional arrangements. One suspects that as the foreign missions slowly move out, the market system will change to suit the new circumstances.

A disturbing reminder of Timor’s struggle is the number of Internally Displaced People (IDP) camps in and around Dili. According to a UNIPOL official, an accurate estimate of IDP’s is near impossible as the figures are too fluid, but in the hundreds of thousands. Far too many for this bleeding heart.

These are the victims of the civil unrest that has plagued Timor Leste since its aspirations to become independent. A mixture of Tetum, Bahasa Indonesian, Portuguese, English, sign language and drawings, gives a small window into the lives of people who have had to master the art of survival under the most excruciating circumstances. And yet, affording genuine welcomes complimented by uplifting smiles.

As the situation in Timor becomes more stable, the government, assisted by the UNHCR, is undertaking a program of reintegration, dismantling the IDP camps and sending the displaced back to their villages. Each family unit receives money to rebuild their homes; US$ 4.500 for a totally destroyed dwelling, and part-payments for lesser damage, plus a one off ration of 16 kg of rice. Witnessing an example of the rolling out of this program left many unanswered questions.

Visiting Dili was a good reminder of what is good and wholesome about the human spirit. Returning home a painful reminder of inequalities and injustice. Ringing in my head are the emotional words exclaimed by the charismatic Xanana Gusmão on the occasion of his inauguration as the first President of Timor Leste: “Viva Timor”. 

I’m now planning my next visit; wanna come?